Just Under the Wire

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I baaaaarely squeaked in a Grainline Archer before December was up! I’ve still got a few hours to post about it here on the West Coast, but I didn’t want to miss Archer Appreciation Month! Jen creates really beautiful patterns, and the Archer button-up is no exception.

Archer1-Amy3Things got a little crazy around here this month, thanks to making holiday gifts. In the midst of that storm of fabric and yarn, I decided to head out to Mill End for a few supplies. I spotted this cotton double-gauze I remembered seeing there last year. I was so happy there was still some left! It’s one of those fabrics that you always regret not putting in your shopping cart once you get home. It feels like butter, especially after it’s fresh out of the dryer. Heavenly!

Archer1-Amy4I’ve been meaning to make myself a few button-ups for the longest time. I don’t buy them because they always gape at the bustline, and if I get one to fit my bust, it’s much too large all over. I knew that I wanted something loose, but not too slouchy. I check my measurements against Jen’s pattern, and although  my bust called for me to make a size 14, I ended up making the size 10 instead, because the pattern has so much wearable ease. I think for my next one I’ll go down to an 8 to make it a bit more fitted.

Archer1-Amy5I didn’t do any other pattern alterations this round. I have a bad habit of completely changing patterns right from the start, and I wanted to see if I liked Jen’s original design before I tweaked it. It’s really nice! It’s roomy, comfortable, and perfect for hiking. When I make my next one, I’ll shorten the sleeves (I should have done that this round but I forgot), shorten the shoulder seam and recut the back neckline to fit my rounded shoulders better, so that the yoke seam comes forward as much as it’s meant to. I already have my fabric and I’m excited to add another Archer to my wardrobe!

The opposite side of the plaid is a red and white stripe. It’s a nice detail when I rolled up the sleeves, but meant that I had to be particularly careful when cutting out my pieces. If you’re using a plaid that is one-sided, you have even less room for error! Buttons were not easy for me to pick with this fabric. Rob helped me to find these marbled buttons, and I really like the way they look.Archer1-insideI was concerned that the fabric would shift quite a bit while sewing, as it has some loft to it. I used my walking foot and very carefully pinned all of my matching seams. Lucky for me, it worked really well and saved me lots of time with basting. I was quite pleased with the matching along the side seams and sleeve seams!

Archer1-sideseamI didn’t want to put too many details on the bias with this plaid. I think it would have been too busy had I put the front button band on the bias. Instead, I cut it out to match the plaid, but I could have simply used the same left fold-under placket piece instead. Next time! The back yoke is on the bias though, along with the pockets.

Archer1-Amy2I love this shirt so much! What’s one of your favorite patterns you’ve ever made? I’m always looking for new ones!

  • madeonthecouch

    I love this on you, it looks fabulous!

    I’ve been waiting for someone with the same (or similar) figure to me to make this so that I could work out if it would suit me, and you’ve totally convinced me. The fabric you’ve used is particularly amazing, that plaid is gorgeous. Is double gauze similar to flannel? It kind of looks it in the photos but I always thought double gauze was super lightweight fine cotton and your shirt looks like it has way more body that I pictured. Either way, what a great shirt!

    • Thank you so much! 🙂

      I think it’s a great pattern for all body types. From my measurements, the shirt had about 6.5″ of ease thru the body, so I went with a smaller size, which I would suggest if you’re built like me. I know that a lot of sewists use their upper chest measurement instead of their full bust, which may also point to a smaller size.

      This double gauze (that’s how it was labeled at the store) might actually be a double cotton. The threads that make up the fabric are thicker than a gauze. It is aaaammmaaaaazzziinngg stuff! I’m so happy I found it!

  • This fabric looks so lovely! I love the double sided stripes and plaid! I didn’t get my Archer finished by the end of December unfortunately but I have a feeling when I’ve finished this one (which is white swiss dot) I’ll be starting on a plaid one after seeing yours!

    • The fabric is really amazing. I wish I could find it in lots of different colors, because I’d just keep sewing it. It’s so soft I don’t want to wear a shirt under my Archer, even though it’s freezing outside. I want to feel the fabric! I’d love to see your plaid Archer if you make one. I have lots of info on matching plaids on my site to help!

  • In the nick of time is damn right Amy! Good job for posting this just before the month ended.

    To be honest, I like the slouchy look of it. It’s very flattering and undone looking. From the photos, it looks like it held up well during your hike. God bless you for being a natured woman because I sure am not. If it doesn’t have an outlet for my blow dryer, I’m not going!

    • The funny thing is, it’s been done for a while, I just wanted a chance to take some cute photos outdoors, instead of in my (very uninspiring) living room. It’s no magazine-worthy shoots like what you have, but it makes me happy! 🙂

      I like the slouchy look too. I was hesitant because with a large bust, “slouchy” starts to look “pregnant” because it hangs off your bustline and gives you no waist definition. I’ve decided I just don’t care- it’s too comfortable to not love!

      Oh come on- maybe if you were out in the right place you’d love being outdoors. Walking around on mountains and under waterfalls? It’s pretty hard not to like it. 😉

  • Jan

    I love this shirt! Its got a very finished look. Good job…what did you say the name was for the material? Thanks for sharing

    • Thank you so much, Jan! The fabric was labeled as a double gauze, but I think from the thickness of the threads used to weave the fabric, it’s probably more likely a double cotton. It’s woven in such a way that the two pieces of very thin fabric are held together by sharing a yarn about every inch and a half or so. Double gauze is usually very thin, so the body of this fabric leads me to believe it’s probably double cotton. Here are some similar fabrics for your reference, but I can’t guarantee they’re as soft as my plaid.



  • Nice! Lovely job. It looks perfect for Portland too. 🙂

    • Thank you! I do feel very Portland in it. 😉

  • Jan

    Amy, thanks for responding….Is it possible to buy this type of fabric from a company?

    • Yes. The first link I posted is to a company from the UK you can buy it thru. The Robert Kaufman fabrics (second link) could most likely be purchased thru a quilt store, so you might call local ones and ask if they carry it. Otherwise, check online stores for Double Cloth.

  • This is really, really, really cute! I LOVE the fabric, and you’ve matched it all so beautifully! Great job!!!

    • Thanks so much, Ginger! I really do love this piece.

  • Angie M

    Ok, well the entire post had a lot of ‘Greek to me’ moments but…I LOVE the beautiful shirt and the beautiful model! Simply gorgeous! And I haven’t even got over the fact that you MADE A JACKET…and now a shirt…and that dress…and everything. Man, so impressive! I’m in awe. I won’t even be so cheeky to say “one day I’ll learn” because I think I’ll just stick to my quilting. But I certainly am enjoying seeing what YOU make and am very impressed that I am even allowed on your blog! lol! Is your hubby a photographer because your pics are always so awesome – and you totally have the hot model moves/poses! Work it, gurrrrl! 😉
    – Angie

    • You’re too funny, Angie! Thanks so much for the compliments- made my day! Yes, the Mr. often helps me out with photos. It’s too bad I’m not brave enough to share my outtakes that happen while he’s figuring out the camera adjustments. Let’s just say my weird sense of humor comes out. 😉

      You should give clothes a try! I promise it’s not as hard as it looks, especially since you know how to sew a straight line from quilting. Perhaps a simple A-line skirt that you could add in a patchwork piece to?

      • Angie M

        Oh Amy! They always want you to start with a skirt! Born with dreaded cankles and tree trunk legs, a 70s child who endured boys lifting your skirt in grade school (before sexual harassment rules!), I’m just not a skirt girl!
        If you have a chance, could you possibly check the Craftsy questions? I re-threaded (so easy, what’s all the fuss, people?) and just wanted you to check the tension before I start my samples (finally, right? Geez, Angie, do it already!) lol!
        Thank you!

        Sent from my iPad

        • I know, I know. The reason everyone recommends a skirt is because it’s one of the fastest projects you can make. What about a simple tank top though, or even a cape? Oooo– a warm cape out of beautiful wool! Now that would be fast! 🙂

          I check the questions yesterday, so I hope you saw my response. Your stitches looked great! I can’t wait to see how your samples turn out.

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